As another fashion week season draws to a close, the Trendhub team have collated our key call-outs from the London, Milan and Paris shows. Established and emerging designers showcased their latest collections ahead of the upcoming SS24 season, as always indicating what we can expect to see trickle down into the ready-to-wear market.
London Fashion Week is known for being at the epicentre of all things creative, but the menswear calendar was a little more low-key this year. Ravensbourne University showcased 15 graduating designers taking a gender-neutral approach to menswear, with designers opting for unisex and androgynous styles. London’s global dominance as a creative and cultural hub is clear when the city’s emerging designers shine.
Key Call-Outs from London SS24
PRINT & PATTERN
Checks: The Trendhub team saw checks presented by designers such as Martine Rose and Justin Cassin on a micro- to large-scale. Smart and playful checks are colourful or tonal.
TRIMS & DETAILS
Buckle Placements: Across London Fashion Week, the Trendhub team identified adjustable buckles, which designers used to add details to their final looks. These additions were seen across multiple uses and either silver or gold finishes.
KEY COLOURS
Hyper Red: Bright red shades are seen being worked into sporty knits, matte leathers and wovens. These shades are combined with solid black and grey tones. This up-trending colour was also seen head-to-toe red looks on London catwalks.
In Milan, designers continued to present new tailoring codes and contemporary menswear silhouettes. Prada’s show helped refocus the conversation around fluidity in fashion — instead focusing on a more literal interpretation of the notion. The show, titled ‘Fluid Form’, saw slime pour down from the steel ceiling, creating translucent, viscous corridors. Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons challenge gender norms and explored new ways to dress the body.
Our Key Print and Pattern Call-outs:
KEY COLOURS
Pistachio: On the Milan catwalks we observed soft shades of green, paired with other green shades. This palette is found on flat or textured surfaces.
FABRIC DIRECTION
Sheer Nylon: Technical sheers seen in co-ords and drawstrings and pocket details give an elevated look. The sheer fabric is seen on textured or crinkled surfaces.
TRIMS & DETAILS
Embellishments: Changing codes of masculinity were explored with embellishments, beads and crystals for enhancing the looks, and elevating everyday items.
As usual, Paris brought the key global fashion weeks to a close, playing host to some of the most memorable shows of the season. Pharrell Williams debuted his first Louis Vuitton show as creative director, taking over the Pont Neuf with Rihanna and Beyoncé in attendance. Meanwhile, Dior's Kim Jones celebrated his fifth year as creative director of Dior menswear.
KEY COLOURS
Light Lemon: At Paris fashion week, we observed delicate shades of lemon with green undertones. This colouring works perfectly in tailored pieces and is also seen in single-toned dressing.
FABRIC DIRECTION
High Shine Satin: This fabric is up-trending, giving a luxurious and polished appeal. It has been seen on the catwalks in a range of colours, allowing for versatility in coordinating with other garments.
PRINT & PATTERN
Irregular Checkerboard/Glitchcore: Used in various colour combinations to give an abstract feeling to the pattern. It is seen on tops, bottoms and jackets, which adds playful elements to pieces. Print is seen in different variations and sizes of squares.
ALL REPORTS AVAILABLE FOR THE SS24 SEASON:
*London Menswear, Milan Menswear, Paris Menswear*
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