Last week, we attended Tranoï’s Paris Fashion Week showroom. An industrial space brought together emerging designers from various fashion districts, eagerly displaying their latest collections. In conversation with the designers, they revealed the importance of functional aesthetics, embracing imperfect craft and the importance of heritage and identity unveiled through personal design details. Below are some of the standout brands from the showroom.
British-Nigerian designer, Abigail Ajobi, is proving that romance isn’t dead by developing a collection rooted in a love story close to home. Entitled ‘Continuing the Love Story’, Ajobi has released a sequel collection inspired by her parent's love story, with graphics capturing their first meeting on the plane between Lagos and London and the romantic love letters written between them.
The collection reflects a blend of Nigerian heritage and urban London culture, representing a fusion of cultural identities in a contemporary way. Crafted from deadstock Nigerian denim and leather, the collection emphasises the importance of sustainability and responsible sourcing, as well as the significance of community and social awareness..
“It is important for Abigail Ajobi as a brand and as a designer to be sustainable, which is why our ‘convertible’ clothing functionality has been carried over from our previous collections. This means many of our pieces can be worn in multiple ways, from shorts to full length trousers etc. We also use deadstock denim. Our leather is sourced holistically; meaning some of our skins may have minor natural blemishes. We feel that this gives our pieces that extra bit of character whilst encouraging sustainability. Placement prints are not used in our production which makes each piece unique to the individual and reduces waste.”
Śilpa is a streetwear brand taking inspiration from South Asian culture, blending these influences with an artistic approach and contemporary mindset. Slow fashion is at the heart of the brand, with close attention paid to the intricate handmade details featured on the garments. Upcycling is rooted in this slow fashion message, with the latest collection exhibiting upcycled denim looks.
In this latest collection, the garments nod to farming, with hay textures recreated through densely-packed embroidered details alongside washed-out fabrics and utilitarian influences. These rural silhouettes combine with personal painterly illustrations, nodding to the designer’s loved ones and embracing joyful tones.
Jekeun is a menswear brand based in London, shaped by Designer Jekeun Cho’s South Korean background. Personal touches taken from the literal creative brain behind the brand see 3D tactile textures imitating Cho’s real-life brain scan. Vivid graphics and playful materials take inspiration from bold Korean fashion, with colour-drenched outerwear and saturated colour pops emerging through tailored details.
A coordinating corduroy set features neon yellow, with distressed details revealing the neon tone as the garment is worn. The choice of fabric, and the effect of the distressing, aim to champion repeated wear, pivoting worn details as a positive design aesthetic.
The designer’s latest collection explores tailoring and the possibilities of interchangeable silhouettes. Learning to work and live with Dyspraxia, Miles George Daniel embraces imperfections seen throughout the stitching of the garments. There is less focus on perfectionism with more attention on creating uniqueness between each piece made. The deconstructed pieces have an organic feel with a muted, earthy palette, exposed raw edges and experimental forms.
An Indian-based brand rooted in community and conscious craftsmanship, Countrymade’s AW23 collection harnesses natural materials with a focus on sustainability and responsible sourcing in keeping with these values. Printed by nature itself, the designer used shadows to shape the graphic direction of the fabric, printing exactly where shadows fell from natural light. Smartly tailored pieces have a relaxed feel triggered by the organic themes introduced through the rural textiles and prints.
“An amalgamation of light and shadow, this collection is an ode to the disruption that has made us who we are, flawed but beautiful. We carry the baggage of what once was our reality, the reality which is now long gone. Each stroke of this collection is an attempt to surrender to the time wearing us down. Patching and layering our feelings to make us stronger is the anthem for now. The play of linearity and classic shapes paves way for fresh interpretations of the old. And we continue to live in the shadows of our memories.”
SUSHANT ABROL, Founder and Designer
"Championing slow fashion, Lionnard is a Paris-based label crafting garments that respect people and the planet. With a trans-seasonal mindset, Lionnard’s latest collection is not confined to Spring/Summer or Autumn/Winter, as the capsule collection allows for fluid styling throughout the year. Designed and handmade in Paris, the capsule blends experiments with concepts of femininity across menswear pieces while championing versatility.”
DERRICK is known for experimenting with ideas of formality, crafting pieces that encompass technical aspects across relaxed forms. The brand draws from English heritage and traditional silhouettes with a contemporary yet classic spin.
Hidden functionality encapsulates DERRICK's latest collection as discreet pockets and hidden adjustable features shape these versatile pieces. In a blend of the past and present, old military-inspired pieces have been reinvented with modernised adaptability and comfort.